Audiovox CCS-100 cruise
control on an FJR1300
In August, 2006 I installed an Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control in my 04
ABS. I used a bunch of great info from
instructions at fjr1300.info and other bits and pieces that I'd printed
out and saved for this day. Anybody contemplating this farkle should
absolutely get, print, read, and understand those instructions.
But there's one thing I wish I'd gotten from the net - it would have saved
me a little trouble. It turns out there are two key diagnostic features of
the LED inside the CCS-100 device. Below is what I found out about it, and
some other information I can share about this installation.
Also, there is a much simpler wiring solution available, if you're willing
to give up a few things - like the backlights on the control pad and the
On/Off buttons. See below for that, too.
The diagnostic LED
There is an LED inside the main CCS-100 unit housing next to the set of
jumpers. (On my unit the LED is red.) It has two key diagnostic features.
First, you can use it to tell if your buttons are working - that is, the On,
Off, Set, and Resume buttons on the control pad. Once you turn on your bike
and press the "On" button on the cruise control switch pad, the main unit is
energized. Now press the Set button and watch the LED inside the main unit. If
it turns on and then off, your Set button is working. Do the same for the
Resume button. Then press the Off button and try the others - they should not
cause the LED to light, because the whole unit is now off.
Second - and this is the big one - you can tell if your signal from the
ignition coil / tachometer tap is working. Start the bike, press the "On" button to enable cruise,
and watch the LED. It should be flashing on and off at a steady pace - mine
was about once a second or so. If it's not on at all (when not pressing any
control pad buttons) then your engine-speed pickup isn't working. The LED
should flash at a rate proportional to
the engine speed: rev the engine and you'll see the light blink faster. If it
does, you have a good connection to your tach, coil, or whatever you're using
for the engine speed.
The gray control-pad wire
Here's another item that's missing from Arlen Bloom's original 2003
instructions: the black wire from the switch housing goes to ground, and the
gray wire should go to switched power. Any switched power will do - you don't
have to run it to your turn signals / running lights. The gray wire controls
the backlight LEDs inside the switch housing, and the manual says to connect
that wire to your running lights on the theory that they come on with your
headlights - that is, only at night. But on a motorcycle there's no difference
between the running lights and any other switched power.
Much simpler wiring
I encourage anybody considering this accessory to read this section. It
will make the wiring job much simpler. If you're willing to live without the
on/off button on the control pad, and also the lights that illuminate its
buttons and give you the on/off status, there is much less wiring to
With this change you can run just three wires from the main unit to the
front of the bike, and those wires go straight to the switch pod - you won't
have any wires running off under your side panels to find ground, switched
power, the tach signal, or your running lights. This information came from Jeff Delzer (dbx on fjrforum),
who says he in turn was inspired by BrunDog. I puzzled out some of the whys
and wherefores and I'm convinced it's safe and effective.
There are three key bits of information that make this possible. Item One is
that the main unit gets its operating power either from the red wire that you connect
to the brake signal, or from the brown wire returning from the front. If you
connect red and brown together near the unit, you are giving it power and also
its "On" signal without needing power from the front. Item Two is that once
you've connected red and brown at the unit, the only purpose of the
red, gray, and black wires at the front of the bike is to power the control
pad's backlights and status light. If you can do without those lights you
don't need the wires. Item Three is that you can get the tach signal from the main ECU
connector under the tool tray instead of getting it from the coil at the front
of the bike.
Are you still with me? Here are the revised wiring instructions:
- Connect the red and purple wires from the main unit to the brown and
yellow wires, respectively, of the brown plug under the right side cover.
This provides unit's power on the red
wire and the brake signal on the purple. (See below for an alternative
location to get these.)
- Connect the black wire from the main unit to a frame ground under the
- Cut off and discard the insulated combined gray-and-black signal wires -
you won't be needing those.
- Connect the blue tachometer signal wire from the main unit to the orange
wire that goes into the ECU - that is, the Engine Control Unit, the engine's computer. To access this connector you remove the left
side panel and also the cover you find underneath it. Then you'll see a wide
connector with two rows of 22 wires that plugs in to a device that's sitting under
the tool tray. The orange wire is at the top left of that connector. (In the original instructions, the blue wire from the unit goes to the
gray wire on the coil under the right front panel. That is an ignition signal
for the two right cylinders; the orange wire is the same signal for the left
cylinders.) Don't cut the blue wire off short - there is a red tag on the
blue wire marking the location of a "noise reduction" diode that you want to
leave in place.
- Splice the red and brown wires from the unit together, so they are
connected to each other. Don't cut either one - the red wire still has to go
from the main unit to the brake connector, and the brown wire still has to
run from the main unit to the front of the bike.
What's left coming out of the main unit are the brown, yellow, and green
wires. These will run to the front of the bike. The instructions tell you to
find the four-pin white plastic connector in the kit, the one with one red
wire already sticking out of it. That red wire runs to a fuse, and then an
orange wire comes out again. You don't need the red wire, the fuse, or the
orange wire. You can cut them off the connector. Then plug the brown, green,
and yellow wire ends in to the connector like the instructions say.
Find the control pad. If you're going to use the control pad at all (see
below for the alternatives), here is what to do with each wire coming out of
- Black wire: cut and discard.
- Gray wire: cut and discard.
- Red wire: cut and discard.
- Green, yellow, and brown wires: let these run to the other white plastic
connector so they mate with the same colored wires going back
to the main unit.
There, isn't that easy? The original instructions want you to run the black
to ground, the gray to your turn signals/running lights, and the red to switched power. Sheesh! All that trouble, just so the control pad will light up.
You only have to use it for a day or two before you'll know where the buttons
are in the dark anyway. (The original idea of having signals both from
switched power and the running lights is so the pad's backlights only come on
at night, when the headlights are on. On a bike they're always on so this is
Here is a kind of ASCII sketch of the final wiring diagram. (I'll probably
draw it for-real one day...)
----+--- brown brake wire yellow brake wire --+--- /==========
| | :
| (optional 3A fuse here) : M U
\-----[F*]------------------------------red---------+----------- a n
| : i i
connect brown and red together----> | : n t
----+----- orange wire at ECU connector
Even better: according to TwistyRoad at
there are accessible wires on the left side of the bike - the ECU side, where
the blue wire is heading anyway - where you can get the switched power and
switched ground you need for the unit's red and purple wires. I don't know the
colors to use on that side, but the result is that blue, red, and purple from
the cruise control all run to one place (the ECU connector), and brown,
yellow, and green run to the front.
You don't have to use the supplied control pad - after all, you've disabled
half of it and it doesn't light up any more. Jeff used a SPDT normally-open
toggle switch instead. See his notes and pictures in this thread:
http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=11194&st=20 (look for
the post by dbx). Wire the switch so brown and yellow connect for "Resume,"
and brown and green connect for "Set." Jeff said he wasn't sure he had to
connect brown and red back at the main unit; I checked and I'm sure you do
have to do that.
The result of this change is that the cruise control is "On" all the time
- always ready for you to press Set or Resume to engage it. You lose the
"Off" switch, but using either brake or the clutch will still disengage it.
Now, why does this work? Here's what I've figured out. The main unit uses
the brown wire for two things: one, it puts 11V on it as a signal voltage, so
it can sense when you press the buttons that connect it to the green or yellow
wires. The other job of the brown wire is to listen for the control pad's
"On/Off" signal. The control pad puts the full 12V from its red wire
on the brown wire when you
press the "On" button, and takes it away when you press "Off." By shorting the
brown wire to red (12V) at the unit, you're telling it to be "always on." The
rest works like it ever did: brown-to-green means "Set" and brown-to-yellow
means "Resume." The other wires were needed for the control pad's
backlights and ground,
which you're not using any more.
(I might have some of this wrong. What I know for sure is that I measured 11V
on the unit's brown wire after I disconnected the control pad power and
ground, and before I shorted the unit's red and brown wires together. Even
though it was getting 12V through its red wire, the unit didn't consider
itself in "On" mode until I connected red and brown.)
Safety tip: with this modified wiring, the unit is getting all its
power from the power side of the brake light circuit. I've checked the wiring
diagram and the bike's brown wire at the brown connector comes straight from
the battery through the main fuse, the main switch, and the signaling system
fuse. This circuit can handle the additional load of the cruise control, but
this does mean the unit is not protected by a 3A fuse any more. If it ever
was: maybe the main unit has always been taking its power from the 12V side of
the brake circuit, in which case nothing has changed. But if it took its main power
from the pad-controlled brown wire, well, now it's getting 12V right off the
top, with no fuse. You could put the 3A fuse in line with the red wire, at the
location marked [F*] in the diagram above.
Finally, here are some of the key notes and items beyond what's in Arlen's
- Arlen did his install on a non-ABS bike. On ABS bikes you can't use the
space under the right side cover - it's full of the ABS hydraulic
controller. I found I could use my tool tray by cutting out a channel for
the cable to exit through, and as a bonus the seat itself secures the unit
in place. People have put an auxiliary vacuum reservoir next to it, but I
don't know if I need one yet.
- I tried to remove my fuel rail but failed - I couldn't break the
securing bolts free. Instead I stripped one of the Phillips heads - I hope
my dealer can get that bolt out and replace it with a good one. It would
have made things a lot easier, maybe I could find the right size Phillips
head driver and get a clean angle on it next time.
- Drilling a hole in the "tang" is the hardest part. Get a carbide or
titanium drill bit; my other bits just made a dent without drilling through.
- Instead of putting a nut and bolt through the hole you drilled in the
tang, use the cotter pin that comes in the hardware kit. See
this forum message on fjrowners.ws for details. There is more good info
this other thread, in the post by "Saluda" especially.
- The proper wire to tap on the coil is the gray one, not the red-and-gray
one. (But see above for how to get the signal for the blue wire without
running it to the front.)
In general, this is a good project if you're handy (and a nightmare if
you're not), and you should Google the hell out of "FJR1300" and "Audiovox" to
get all the information, hints, tips, and alternatives you can.
This page was last edited
April 26, 2008.